Even though I took the train and walked until late, I did not get close to the next temple at all. The distance between temple no. 23 and temple no. 24 is over 80km - if I continue walking the whole day, I still won't have any chance to reach the temple on this day. So I decide not to walk for hours next to a big street in the middle of nowhere but take the only measure left to advance faster without having a train available.
But first I had to back to the street, so I walked along the shore and took the next turn toward the road I had been walking on yesterday. What I didn't know that time was, I was on a hiking course, actually a round course. It led one time around a lake, beautiful indeed but not really bringing me closer to my goal.
The shortest circumference with a given area is a circle. If you think of the contrary, your imagination might be quite close to what the lake looked like, so even if there wasn't too much water, there was enough to walk. (I was here for walking, but still it isn't fun when it's in circles.
the lake
rice field on the way
After being back on track, I reached a nice beach, not sand but pebbles and about 3km long. Here and there were some people who were fishing, but basically it was empty. Did you ever try to walk on pebbles? When every step you take is absorbed by the ground - walk 10m but advance only 5m? So the 3km long beach would have easily felt like 6km, if I hadn't decided to climb the wall that protected the forrest behind the beach from high tides and went back on the paved road... climb because there was no gate close. Looking back I remember the wall was 3m high and my backpack weighed 50kg, but of course my memory might not be that accurate and in reality, it was more.
long long beach
fishermen
I reached the main track again and continued walking. Honestly, I tried to walk it all, but the track was desolate. Only a road, vegetation but no trees that could provide shadow and birds circling above me like vultures above somebody dying of thirst.
The extend of emptiness of this area: Usually Japan is ALWAYS crowed, and especially when it is the one week where everybody has vacations - this week!
Shirohama beach - this "city" is quite big compared to what I've seen along the way elsewhere, it even has a hotel.
Finally, not having advanced too quickly the hours I walked until now, I decide to hitchhike. The first car that passes stops and a nice lady takes me with her the few kilometers she has to go in her tiny car. On the way we stop as she insists to buy me something to eat and drink. Lacking convenient stores or other shops, we stop at a vending machine corner with the common huge variety of drinks, but also lots of food - if you have not been in Japan you will never believe what is possible to sell in a vending machine...
At least 65km left, I hitchhike again. This time it takes a while, not the first car stops but maybe one of the first ten cars that passed. 10 cars crossing will take you in Tokyo seconds (unless it's traffic jam again), here it took like 30 minutes.
Again a tiny car but we manage to store all my luggage and myself together with the driver, a woman a bit below my age, her grandma and their dog. We talk about a bit about my trip while they pull out all their food supply to share it with me. We talk about the different areas about Japan, she says she has studied in Kyoto, like me but in a different university. I say I know only one person from her university, she wants to know who and - unbelievable she knows him too! It turns out that, when she was a student, she did karate with Shimizu Ryosuke, who later became Japanese champion and now trains at our dojo in Tokyo.
Time flies and we arrive too quickly at the crossing where I have to head away from the cost again for the next temple, the southmost point of Kochi. Considering I'm just a hitchhiker it was a rather big goodbye, I get more food (for the way) and I'm even allowed to pet the dog. The dog doesn't seem to know that and barks aggressively at the approaching hand, so I decide that this trip might be nice even without petting this dog.
I have to climb another mountain, the serpentines are endless but the temple is worth it.
The next temple is close (6km) and there is still some time. Finally, I arrive there, not willing to take another step. Well, but it doesn't count without climbing that stairs.
Having climbed the stairs, I get rewarded with a beautiful main hall.
New discovery: A fruit called "Miwa". I also discover that I'm allergic to miwa.
Finally some luxury! This night, no tent, no sleeping back - and - being clean after a bath. I checked into a Ryokan, a Japanese style hotel near the temple.
Also no instant ramen, I visit a restaurant and order as much as I can eat (a lot).
Katsuo tataki - barely grilled bonito filet.
the habor
Grilled mouth of squids
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