The 88 temples pilgrimage of Shikoku - Day 1

A Chinese proverb says, also a journey of 1000 ri (1 ri = ca. 4000m) starts with the first step. In the case of this journey, it started somewhat earlier, and not by doing a step but turning the wrist.

In 2003, I went to Beppu by Bike. I was looking for my way while I was driving, so more or less by coincidence I was passing the island of Shikoku. Only a small part in the west, but nevertheless I liked it there. I decided to take a closer look on my way back, so I spend some days there. Maybe only because there is the so called "German house" there, I went to Bando, which, also by coincidence is the start of the 88 temple pilgrimage of Shikoku. I got interested, researched on the topic and decided that I want to do this also, once I have the chance...

The 88 temple pilgrimage a path connecting 88 temples that the monk Kukai is said to have visited after he came back from China and studied a form on Buddhism there, that was not practiced in Japan at this time. It's more or less a round course around the island, some 1200 km long, passing 4 prefectures. As I did this in my free time and not on a professional basis like Kukai, I had to limit my plan to the first 25 temples, that's about 250 km, completing one prefecture and entering the other.

大きな地図で見る

Another difference between me and Kukai was that I could not rely on the hospitality of the temples, so I packed my tent, my sleeping back, stove, a very limited amount of cloth, some luxury items such as toothbrush and 2 books, some water and some food. 20 kg of luggage is not much if you walk to the station, but if you want to carry it for days that's a different story... (What I can see from depictions and statues, Kukai had max. 5kg on his trip! And he had a nicer hat!!!)

Start in Tokyo

I arrived around 4 p.m. at the first temple, after a trip with the Shinkansen and the highway bus. Fist thing to do: shopping. I needed: a white jacket called "Haku-e", a walking stick called "Kongozue", a hat called "Sugakasa" and a book ("Nokyocho") to collect calligraphies of every temple called (some kind of early Panini sticker collection album).

Having purchased all this, I did the rituals, wished for a safe journey and went on my way to temple No.2.

Temple No1

Temple No2

By the time I reached temple No.3, the temples office was already closed so I had to rest there for the first night.

I found some very small restaurant (Udon) close to the temple, one old lady running it and one guest. I had some difficulties with the communication but once I got a bit used to the dialect, we had a really great conversation. They told me how they admire Germany because it's a country of great technology ("it's the country of Benz!")... funny thing, these stereotypes, they seem to be sticky persistent.

They also told me where's a good place to sleep and where to find an Onsen, a hot bath. I paid 4 Euro for the complete meal, including dessert. After the hot bath, I got another soup, rice crakers, a can of tee and some sweets. (When you're on the pilgrimage in Shikoku, it's not unusual that locals give you presents, e.g. food or drinks or invite you for a meal.)

So after the first day I crawled into my tent after a delicious meal, having had a nice conversation with new friends, and against all odds freshly bathed. :)